How to Aim a Gun

Aiming a Gun is a Simple Process, and it’s Easy to Learn

When it comes to the basics of shooting, whether you’re a hunter, plinker, or target shooter, the most important skill to learn is how to aim a gun. It’s not hard to do, and is easy to learn. There are other skills that you must develop in order to become accurate, but aiming is the place to start.

How to Aim a Gun

First, take a minute or two to review the ten most important gun safety rules. Even if you’re an experienced shooter, it never hurts to be reminded of good practices.

We all screw up from time to time, myself included.

Types of Gun Sights

Next, determine what type of sights your gun is equipped with. Most gun sights are open sights, and consist of a rear sight with a notch of some sort, and a front sight. Some rear sights have holes in them, and these are called peep sights (or sometimes aperture or “ghost ring” sights). The gun may otherwise be equipped with an optical sight of some kind.

Optical Sights

The most common optical sight is a scope, which usually magnifies whatever’s viewed through it, and includes some kind of reticle or crosshair for aiming purposes. Other types of optical sights include red dot scopes (the dot color may vary, but “red dot” is often used generically) and holographic sights, which project an image onto a transparent screen.

Aiming With Optical Sights

Aiming with optical sights is the easiest kind of aiming there is, so we’ll talk about that first. Look through the scope or sight and position your head and the sight so you can see through it clearly.

Ensure there’s no blackness around the perimeter of your viewing area (you might have to move your eye closer to the scope or farther away), and that the reticle (the thing you see in the optics; it may be crosshairs, single or multiple dots, an X, a circle, etc) is centered in your view.

In a conventional scope, you will usually see a cross formed of two lines; this is known as the crosshair. Your aiming point is the intersection of the hairs, which should lie in the center of the scope tube. If your aiming point is an electronically-projected dot, you may cover your target with the dot, or adjust your view so the target is positioned just above the dot. Personally, I prefer to adjust red dot sights so that my bullet will strike the target at the top edge of the dot, if the dot is large. If the dot is small enough for fine aiming, or if the gun is to be used for close-range work, I’ll adjust it so the bullet strikes at the center of the dot.

If your aiming point is an X, use the center of the X for aiming, as you would do with a crosshair. If it’s a hollow circle, the center of the circle should be your aiming point.

You get the idea. It’s pretty simple, really.

Using “Iron” Sights

The term “iron sights” has long been used generically for any non-optical sighting system, but the sights themselves may be made of steel, aluminum, brass, plastic, or another material. What they’re made of is not important – as the old song says, it’s in the way that you use it.

Open Sights

With open sights, the idea is to line up the front sight with the notch in the rear sight. The front sight should be centered in the rear sight’s notch, and the top of the front sight should usually be level with the top of the rear sight (see the next paragraph for an example of an exception to that rule).

Shapes of the notches and front sights will vary from square to round, and even triangular. In most cases, proper alignment of these sights is intuitive. The thing to remember is that the top of the front sight is usually held even with the top of the rear sight, but some rear sights with rounded notches have “ears” which stick up a ways. Front sights for such guns are usually round when viewed from behind. When sighting these guns, position the round front sight so that it sits in the rear sight’s notch the way a ball might settle into a low spot on the ground.

Three-dot sights, such as those shown in the photo of the pistol above, help by providing a series of dots. Line the dots up horizontally, and your sights are properly aligned. The same principle applies when using fiber-optic sights, as found on many modern rifles.

Peep (or Aperture, or Ghost Ring) Sights

In most cases, peep sights are easier to use than open sights, because they require less thought. Look through the hole (or “peep”) in the rear sight, center the front sight in your view, and find your target. For most people, centering the front sight is automatically done without conscious thought, which allows one to simply look through the peep, place the front sight on target, and squeeze the trigger. The peep is a very fast and accurate type of sight.

I prefer to zero peep sights so that the bullet will strike the target just at the top edge of the front sight.

The Front Sight

When using iron sights, you won’t be able to focus your eyes on the rear sight, front sight, and target all at the same time. Younger eyes adjust focus back and forth very quickly, but they still can’t view all of them sharply at all times. Concentrate most on the front sight in relation to the target. This is easy to do with a peep sight, but it’s a little more difficult with open sights, since you also have to be mindful of the relationship between the front and rear sights. Just keep in mind the importance of the front sight.

Hold, or Sight Picture

Your sight picture includes your sights and the target. Align the sights and place them in proper relation to your target, and your bullet should hit where you intended to put it (as long as the gun is properly zeroed and “likes” the ammo you’re shooting). Different shooters prefer different sight pictures.

Some shooters prefer a six o’clock hold, which places the entire round bullseye atop the front sight in your view, and the bullets strike somewhere above your sights, hopefully in the center of the bull. I dislike this way of sighting, because it’s fairly imprecise – and diameters of bullseyes vary. I prefer what’s known as the hunting sight picture, which places the top edge of properly-aligned sights in the center of the target, and when everything works as it should, the bullet will strike at the top edge of the front sight.


Shotguns are another critter entirely – for the most part. Some shotguns are equipped with open sights or scopes, and those are covered above, but most scatterguns have one or two beads to use for sighting. Most folks say that you don’t really aim a shotgun, and for the most part that’s true, but the beads definitely have their uses.

Simply adjust your hold and eye position until you are seeing the bead(s) and perhaps a tiny bit of the top surface of the barrel or rib, and that provides you with proper hold for elevation. For windage, align the beads if you have two, or simply eyeball the rib or top surface of the barrel to sure that you’re looking straight down the top of it.

Here’s How:

  1. Check your gun to make sure it’s in good, safe working order. If you’re unsure, have a qualified gunsmith check it for you.
  2. Make sure the ammunition you have is the correct cartridge for your gun. Use only the ammo for which your gun is marked!
  3. Find a safe place to shoot, such as a public shooting range or some other location that has a sufficient backstop – and a guarantee that no one will cross your line of fire.
  4. If you plan to do your shooting on private land, get permission first. If on public land, check the laws governing it. Trespass with a firearm is a felony in some jurisdictions.
  5. Start out at close range; say around 25 yards for a rifle, about 15 yards with a handgun.
  6. Use a solid rest, and take your time. Before each shot, you should take a deep breath, let half of it out, then hold your breath as you complete the shot.
  7. Fire two or three shots and note their location on the target. If they are fairly close together, you’re ready to adjust your sights. If they’re not, then you’re probably not resting steadily or are flinching.
  8. Once you’ve shot a reasonably tight group (one or two inches with a rifle, two or three inches with a handgun), adjust your sights.
  9. Move the rear sight in the direction you want the bullet to go. For example, if you’re shooting low, raise the rear sight. If you’re shooting left, move the rear sight to the right.
  10. Some guns have adjustable front sights. If you are adjusting your front sight, you “chase a miss.” In other words – if you hit low, lower the front sight. If you hit left, move the front sight to the left.
  11. If you’re using a scope, adjust the crosshairs in the direction indicated on the scope. If you’re shooting low and left, turn the screws “up” and “right” the respective number of clicks (see tip 2 below).
  12. Shoot another group of two or three.
  13. Re-adjust your sights depending on where you shot the group in step 11.
  14. Repeat steps 11 & 12 until you’re on target. For rifle shooting, you’ll want to fine-tune the sights, usually at a distance of 100 yards. The point of impact will sometimes be noticeably different between 25 and 100 yards.


  1. ALWAYS keep guns pointed in a safe direction.
  2. With a scope, the per-click graduation will usually be marked, i.e. 1/4″ per click at 100 yards. Remember this will make it 1/8″ at 50 yards, etc. Estimate the distance you’re off and adjust accordingly.
  3. Some “fixed” sights can be adjusted. If the rear sight is in a dovetail notch, you can drift it to correct for windage error. Do not hit it with a hammer! Use a brass drift (hit the drift with a hammer) or use an adjusting tool – or if in doubt, have it done for you by a gunsmith.


So, there you have it; now you know how to aim a gun. It took a lot of words to describe, but it’s really a simple and easy thing to do, and isn’t very hard to master. Good luck on the range and in the woods!

You may also want to read about how to sight in (or zero) a gun, which is something that every shooter needs to know. And you might also be interested in learning how to shoot more accurately.

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